Day 12: A Tale of Two Postcodes

"East London is a vampire,
It sucks the joy right out of me"
- Bloc Party, Song for Clay (Disappear Here)


Over the last couple of days, partly because of rain and partly because of an increasing personal sense of laziness, I've been rather immobile of late (although I must guiltily admit that Commander Shephard has now clocked up a few thousand light years in saving the galaxy from those nasty Reaper types). While I have various travel plans for next week, all of them are out of town, and with my quest to explore London still a bold-type heading in the Freedom Manifesto, I resolved to place another pin in my mental map of my hometown, and headed East.


East London is a bit of a question mark for me. Friends of mine have spoken of its ramshackle markets and trendy bars as a veritable treasure trove fit for Ali Baba's thieves - others would sooner hang themselves than be seen on any street with an E in the postcode. I myself must confess that I only really know Dalston, an area being "regenerated" within an inch of its life and witnessing hordes of sharp-suited professionals homogenising the streets left, right and centre, but beyond snippets of Hackney and a little Canada Water, I'm clueless. Besides, I'm sure my daily wardrobe wouldn't pass muster in even the least exclusive of Hoxton's cocktail bars.


In a flash of inspiration, I thought of Brick Lane - surely one of the most famous streets in London (of course I'd never been there). Home to 93 Feet East, Rough Trade Records and more curry houses than you can shake a peshwari naan at, I headed directly there, though the journey from quaintly genteel Surbiton was hardly straightforward.  Stepping after an hour of underground and overground hell out of Shoreditch High Street, where I could already feel my street cred rising rapidly, I passed along Quaker Street (spotting a hilariously formal "No peeing" sign outside an otherwise innocuous wall) before turning onto Brick Lane itself.


The moment I hit the street I received a woefully poorly timed phone call from my gym asking if I was at all interested in their incredible Customer Referral Scheme. As if my magic, effortlessly coolly dressed teenagers sauntered casually past, staring incredulously at this shorted-and-T-shirted suburbanite shouting down his iPhone, as if I wasn't already feeling markedly out of place.  However, things picked up as I strolled past the old Truman Brewery, and passed onto the curry house battleground. It's clear that this a dog-eat-dog world for any aspring restauranteur, with multiple banners exclaiming why a tourist should part with their cash for a phaal at their place rather than the outwardly identical house next door. The poorest advert I could find was a particular establishment proudly declaiming that its chef was "runner-up in the Brick Lane Curry Festival"...in 2005.  


Before I knew it I reached Whitechapel Road, and in the distance I saw the faceless giants that are the skyscrapers of the Square Mile. It seemed only minutes ago that I was fighting past groups of laughing students outside All Star Lanes, and suddenly I was a banker's briefcase's throw from the City.  I couldn't resist the temptation to revisit, if only briefly, the streets that had been part of my working life every since I moved here, and so E1 bled smoothly into EC3, the rough-hewn newsagents and stalls of Brick  Lane replaced by airbrushed, overpriced bars and restaurants.  


Yet immediately, the tension, even unease I felt in such a culturally significant part of London melted away.  Walking down Leadenhall Street, poking briefly into its famous Market before shaking my head at the ugliness of the Lloyds building, the metallic buildings and the sanitised streets imbued a sense of familiarity and comfort.  I walked almost automatically, ticking off places I'd visited in what I now regard as a previous life (Caravaggio, Abacus, the old Fuzzy's Grub that still hasn't been replaced), and chided myself for feeling that the cool austerity of EC3 could warm me more than the fierce independence of E1.  


But this is the London I know, that has made me who I am today, and for all the time I have dedicated to pushing my personal boundaries, it was ironically soothing to return to the postcode that has chewed up and spat out so many before me.