Tuesday 9 August 2011

Days 14 and 15: Hampton Court/Nuneaton

"Keep calm and carry on" - British Second World War Poster


As London implodes around me, my indulgence of freedom as I enter Week 3 must remain unfettered - I don't intend to let the horrific actions of an imbecilic few keep me locked in my flat, and in any case South West London seems to have escaped the majority of the trouble. So in a bid to escape the Armageddon-style glut of rolling news and harbingers of doom, my itchy feet continue to direct me well away from my home, and in the last forty-eight hours I've taken in the glorious historic attraction that is Hampton Court Palace, and the slightly less glorious and palatial but still highly enjoyable Nuneaton.


The journey to the former was made by boat. I'm not known, frankly, for my love of water - I like looking at it, but am less keen on interacting with it - but I was pleasantly surprised by the serenity of the service from Kingston Pier to Hampton Court. Frankly, with the choice being between a uninspiring ten-minute Southwest train journey, or a leisurely half-hour cruise along the river, past astonishingly large houses and pretty bank-side pubs in Thames Ditton, I think we made the right decision. As boats of all sizes, from tiny punts to gleaming white yachts, sailed past us, they all without fail waved at us as we cut a path towards the Palace.  Sometimes, when the TV is angrily declaiming the end of civilisation as we know it, falling back on these seemingly inconsequential details renders their verbiage flat and lifeless.


Being cheapskates and penny-pinchers we didn't actually go in to the court itself, simply wandering the informal grounds (the "Formal Grounds" were behind the paywall) and taking in a summer Sunday.  I couldn't help notice that the head of one of the statues in the rose garden was covered in rather un-Tudorish clingfilm (or was Henry VIII simply very much ahead of his time?) but the place really was a perfectly encapsulated time-warp.  It would be difficult to state with a straight face that, at the time of the construction of the palace, England was settled and stable, but even a cursory wander allowed us to be transported away from financial meltdown, civil unrest and political rebellion.


The next day, I had an unmistakable sense of "deja vu". I woke up early on a Monday morning, left the house before my girlfriend, and fought my way past commuters to Euston from where I was going to take a Virgin train to the north. If I'd been on auto-pilot, I would have quite easily mistakenly climbed into First Class on the next train to Preston, instead of cattle to Rugby, but fortunately I had my wits sufficiently about me to remind myself I was simply heading out for the day to visit a good friend of mine from university days, now living in Nuneaton.


I didn't see a great deal of the town itself, as Dave decided wisely instead that we should see a little of the Midlands countryside.  Indeed, tramping past the quarry at Hartshill and along narrow, winding canals (I of course took the opportunity to wave at more boats), we managed to visit three separate counties - Warwickshire, Staffordshire and Leicestershire.  I was at times hopelessly lost underneath the canopied forests and the endless rolling hills, but my guide knew his way expertly, even if the odd wrong turning (leading to another hill) occasionally flummoxed us. There was even a time for a quick visit, in the name of amateur dramatics, to Tamworth Castle, to scout out potential rooms for a production Dave will be involved in for Hallowe'en. Overall it was wonderful to escape into the countryside, as even in Durham I was still technically in a city, and while I'm no Wordsworth, I believe it is only possible to enjoy nature to the full when you have experienced so much contrasting urbanity that you feel suffocated by its weight.


Fortunately we managed to counteract the healthy exercise and appreciation of God's green earth with a couple of ciders in Spoons and a chicken kiev dinner at the Old Malt Shovel. Life is, after all, about balance.